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Roots Before Runways

  • Writer: Jenna Nolan
    Jenna Nolan
  • Feb 16
  • 4 min read

Culture is everywhere right now. It is on runways on social media and in everyday outfits. That visibility can be powerful, but it also comes with responsibility. Before getting into more examples, I think it is important to be very clear about what cultural appropriation actually is. Cultural appropriation happens when elements of a marginalized or oppressed culture are taken by a more dominant group without understanding credit or respect especially when the people from that culture have historically been punished, stereotyped, or excluded for those same elements. This is not new. It has been happening for centuries through colonization slavery and globalization where culture was taken stripped of meaning and repackaged for profit or status. Fashion and celebrity culture just make it easier to see.


One runway moment that clearly crossed the line happened when Gigi Hadid walked in a show for Marc Jacobs in 2016 wearing locs styled as an edgy runway look. Locs are deeply tied to Black identity history and resistance and Black people have faced discrimination in schools workplaces and public spaces for wearing their hair this way. Seeing a white model praised for the look while Black people are still penalized for the same hairstyle showed a clear double standard. Even though apologies were made afterward the damage was already done. It showed how often Black culture is treated as inspiration without

accountability when it enters high fashion spaces.



Another moment that stuck with me was during Milan Fashion Week when Gucci featured a Sikh turban backstage at its Fall 2018 show. The Sikh turban is a sacred religious symbol tied to faith identity and commitment. Seeing it placed on a white model as a styling accessory without context or collaboration caused serious backlash especially knowing Sikh men have been discriminated against and profiled for wearing turbans in public. Moments like this make it very clear that intent does not erase impact.


I also do not think this is something that should be sugar coated. Cultural appropriation is wrong. It is wrong because it allows people with privilege to benefit from cultures they do not belong to while the people from those cultures continue to face bias and exclusion. Calling it fashion creativity or self expression does not change the reality. When culture is taken without care it becomes exploitation not appreciation. Dismissing these conversations as overreactions usually comes from people who have never had their identity turned into a costume.


A lot of appropriation also happens outside of runways especially in festival culture. Events like Coachella have been criticized for years because of celebrities and influencers wearing Native American headdresses as accessories. Celebrities like Vanessa Hudgens have been publicly associated with this issue after posting photos wearing sacred headdresses as festival outfits. These items are not fashion statements. They are earned and carry spiritual and cultural meaning. At the same time celebrities like Kylie Jenner and Kim Kardashian have been praised for wearing Black hairstyles while Black people are still policed for wearing the same styles. These repeated moments show how normalized appropriation has become when it comes from people with influence.



That is why it matters to be specific about what cultural appreciation actually looks like. A strong example is the collaboration between NorBlack NorWhite and Nike. This collaboration was not a surface level trend moment. NorBlack NorWhite is a brand rooted in Indian culture and known for celebrating South Asian identity color and craft. The collection centered bandhani which is a centuries old Indian tie dye technique that has deep cultural and regional significance. Instead of borrowing the look and removing its meaning Nike worked directly with the designers to translate bandhani into everyday athletic wear including leggings, sports bras, hoodies, bags, and sneakers. The campaign also centered Indian women athletes and creatives which made the collaboration feel grounded and intentional. What stands out to me is that the culture was not diluted or renamed. It was clearly credited celebrated and brought to a global audience with respect. That is appreciation done right.



I want to end on a moment that genuinely inspired me which was Bad Bunny being connected to Super Bowl performances and campaigns while fully embracing his Puerto Rican identity. He did not change his language, tone, or references to make people more comfortable. He showed up as himself and brought his culture into one of the biggest cultural spaces in the United States. That kind of representation matters. It reminds people that culture does not need permission to exist in mainstream spaces. I think that same confidence should be encouraged in everyday fashion too. People should feel supported wearing pieces tied to their heritage openly and proudly. Culture is not a trend or an accessory. When it is honored respected and worn with intention it makes style more personal and more powerful!



Being educated is cool! Check out these links to read more about cultural appropriation:



NorBlack NorWhite x Nike collab:



 
 
 

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